Fill Up Your Binding

Many of you asked about the steps for making the fuller quilt binding that I showed in this instagram reel so I'm giving all details with lots of photos here. If you've got more questions, ask away in the comments at the end. At first glance, binding done this way will look the same but it feels sooooo different. It feels substantial, like it's supposed to be there. This method works for double layered batting too without changing any of the measurements or steps. The good news is that it's a few small tweaks to do binding this way (see steps 2, 3, 6, & 7)! Easy peasy!

Most of the links in this tutorial help keep coffee in my mug and batting in my quilts.

Step 1 - Figure out how many 2 1/2" binding strips you'll need. To do this, add the length and width of your quilt together then double it. Divide this number by 42 and round up to the nearest whole number.

For example if your quilt is 30" x 40", you'd add 30+40 to get 70 then double it to get 140. Then divide 140 by 42 to get 3.3. Round this up to know that you'll need 4 strips.

For those who love algebra: 2(w+l)/42

Cut the specified number of binding strips 2 1/2" wide by the width of fabric (usually 42"-44").

Step 2 - Quilt your quilt then trim off the excess batting and backing 1/4" away from the edge of the quilt top.

I like to use a 6" x 24" ruler with a suction cup handle and rotary cutter for this step. The goal here is to make the edges of the quilt straight and square with each other while leaving that extra little bit of batting on the edge.

Step 3 - Trim the corners. This is the most I trim off, you may find that you like a little less trimmed off.

Step 4 - Stitch the binding strips together to make one long strip. Start by putting the ends of two strips together perpendicularly (right sides together too). Then stitch the diagonal using matching thread.

I like to chain piece the strips, meaning I stitch them one after another without cutting the thread. Hard to see in the photo but they are all connected. Then trim the seams to 1/4" and trim the little points off too.

Step 5 - Press the binding. Start by pressing all the seams open. See how nice it is to have the little corners trimmed. Then work in sections to fold the strip in half lengthwise and press.

Step 6 - Place one end of the binding on the front of the quilt, matching the raw edges of the binding to the edge of the quilt top.

Step 7 - Use a walking foot to stitch the binding on using 1/4" seam allowance, leaving 8"-10" of the end of the binding strip loose. A walking foot has a notch to mark 1/4" to make it easy to keep a consistent seam allowance. Notice that the seam allowance is measured from the edge of the quilt top not the edge of the batting.

When I first started quilting (and for like 15 more years), I used a regular foot for this step. The problem with this is that the quilt will move faster than the binding will. Then the binding will be a little tight and pull in the corners of the quilt. The quilt will never lay flat. I can't tell you how many quilts I have done this way. I pinned and pinned to try and avoid it but it still happened. So long story short, use a walking foot (here's the one I use, yes it's a knock off and I LOVE it).

Step 8 - When you get to the corner, mark the edge of the quilt top, mark 1/4" away from the edge of the quilt top, and mark the diagonal stitching line too . Stitch to the 1/4" mark, then with the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the quilt to aim for the corner. Put the presser foot back down and stitch the diagonal. Remove the quilt from your sewing machine and trim the threads.

Step 9 - Fold the binding up, hold it in place, then fold it straight down. The top fold should line up with the edge of the quilt top and the raw edge of the binding should line up with the next edge of the quilt top.

Step 10 - Stitch the binding to the next side. Start by stitching in the batting and use the same 1/4" seam allowance as done previously.

Step 11 - Continue stitching the binding to all four sides of the quilt and folding the binding in the corners as done previously. Stop stitching 8"-10" away from where you started.

Step 12 - Connect the binding ends. Start by laying the binding ends flat on the quilt, the left over the right, trim off excess length as needed.

Take a piece of binding that was trimmed off, open it, and lay it perpendicularly on the two binding layers. Match the left edge to the end of the bottom binding strip. Mark the other edge on the top binding strip and cut the top binding strip along the line. This will create an overlap of the two binding strips that is exactly the width of the binding. Alternately, use a ruler to make this 2 1/2" overlap.

Lift the top binding strip up and open it.

Lift the bottom strip up to the top strip and match the top corners. Then open the bottom strip while holding the matching corners of the strips together. Make sure right sides are together. The quilt will have to bunch together to get the binding strips to match.

Pin the binding ends together. Mark a diagonal line connecting the corners of the top and bottom strips. If the diagonal is drawn from the top corner, it won't work. To check, straighten the binding out (adjusting pins as needed) to be sure that it will make one continuous strip. Still not sure? Baste the diagonal then check it. Stitch the diagonal.

Step 13 - Trim the seam made in step 12 to 1/4", finger press it open, refold binding in half lengthwise. Stitch this last section of binding to the quilt using the same 1/4" seam as done previously.

Step 14 - Press binding from the front. Why this step? One - It makes it easier to flip the binding to the back. Two - It's a great opportunity to check that the binding and quilt top look good all the way around. Sometimes some of the basting stitches I used to hold the quilt top down during quilting are showing and I remove them here. Three - Pressing makes the corner folds sharp.

Step 15 - Flip the fold of the binding to the back and hand stitch it down. The fold of the binding should just cover the stitching line made from stitching the binding to the front. That extra batting should fit right in without any extra pulling or force. I like to work in small sections using clips. I've never been much of a hand stitcher so I have yet to find a favorite needle/thimble combo for this step. Let me know if you have a favorite needle or thimble and I will try it!

I really enjoyed snuggling up with this quilt last night while hand stitching the binding to the back. My 16 year old son and husband watched Orville with me as I stitched. A show set in space certainly fit the moon theme of this quilt. When stitching at night, I do love having a good light for this step. I use this lightweight reading light clipped it to the collar of my shirt. It's bendable and rechargeable! I do love the magic of needle minders and there are so many cute ones out there (these are magnets that you put on your shirt so that when you're not using your needle, it always has a home).

When I started quilting, binding was strange and I didn't love doing it but now it's so satisfying. I love seeing my piece so close to the end, I love feeling the fabrics and seeing the texture the quilting created. It's like hand writing a heart felt letter then sealing the envelope.

I hope your quilts lie flat and your binding is full! Let me know what you think of the binding techniques I shared here and especially tell me about your hand stitching tricks. Happy Quilting!